View Full Version : Fin Rot
Ong Ginyew
19th December 2002, 01:10 AM
Hi......... ive got a couple of bettas which is suffering from fin rot. The caudal tail is either shreded or crumpled. Ive tried salt, but no improvements. Although it did not turn out to be worse. But it hurts me alot to c em in tat condition, further more they cost me quite alot. can anybody help me or give me advice. Urgent!!!!!!!
Foo Hong
19th December 2002, 09:36 AM
ARe they HM or CT? HMs sometimes will bite their tails n could be confused as finrot.
but assuming is finrot, normally is not in itself effective bcos u are not dealing with parasites. commercialy available 'yellow powder' over several days, with water changes and re-dosing...will help stop rotting.[always in my case]. You must have either dumped dirty food in yr jar or stressed the fish badly somehow.
Foo Hong
19th December 2002, 09:36 AM
ARe they HM or CT? HMs sometimes will bite their tails n could be confused as finrot.
but assuming is finrot, normally is not in itself effective bcos u are not dealing with parasites. commercialy available 'yellow powder' over several days, with water changes and re-dosing...will help stop rotting.[always in my case]. You must have either dumped dirty food in yr jar or stressed the fish badly somehow.
Myron Tay
19th December 2002, 09:37 AM
Could try the interpet fin rot treatment available at all good lfs.
Myron Tay
19th December 2002, 09:37 AM
Could try the interpet fin rot treatment available at all good lfs.
Samuel Phan
19th December 2002, 09:46 AM
A few days in Yellow Powder solution and water change every alternate days for 1 week will probably solve your problem.
Samuel Phan
19th December 2002, 09:46 AM
A few days in Yellow Powder solution and water change every alternate days for 1 week will probably solve your problem.
Ong Ginyew
20th December 2002, 12:09 AM
ok. i'll try and wait for the outcome. Btw its a Halfmoon and Crown Tail.
Thanks for the advice.
Ong Ginyew
20th December 2002, 12:09 AM
ok. i'll try and wait for the outcome. Btw its a Halfmoon and Crown Tail.
Thanks for the advice.
Ronnie Lau
30th December 2002, 05:00 PM
Heh Ong,
How's your fish's conditions now ? I had similar problems with 4 of my HMs recently - suspected the cause to be either over doses of water conditioner(A-PLUS)or live BW - still not very sure. Anyway my problems are more or less contained now - Interpet No 8 did it for me.
Cheers.
Ronnie Lau
30th December 2002, 05:00 PM
Heh Ong,
How's your fish's conditions now ? I had similar problems with 4 of my HMs recently - suspected the cause to be either over doses of water conditioner(A-PLUS)or live BW - still not very sure. Anyway my problems are more or less contained now - Interpet No 8 did it for me.
Cheers.
Foo Hong
30th December 2002, 06:23 PM
normally water conditioners overdosing is harmless...unless of cos you add it like coffemate in yr coffee!kekeke
more like the live BWs, which can be sterilised with methylene blue.
Foo Hong
30th December 2002, 06:23 PM
normally water conditioners overdosing is harmless...unless of cos you add it like coffemate in yr coffee!kekeke
more like the live BWs, which can be sterilised with methylene blue.
Ong Ginyew
5th January 2003, 02:55 PM
yeah... my half moon and crown tail did not make it....
after adding bacteria specific medicines, d colour of d body turned pale and the next thing i noe, its dead. Both died on d same day after adding d medicines. sucked!!
onli my DTCT made it alive.. save it with salt...
Ong Ginyew
5th January 2003, 02:55 PM
yeah... my half moon and crown tail did not make it....
after adding bacteria specific medicines, d colour of d body turned pale and the next thing i noe, its dead. Both died on d same day after adding d medicines. sucked!!
onli my DTCT made it alive.. save it with salt...
Kelvin Tan
6th January 2003, 08:54 AM
the most likely reason that you Hm get finrot is because they are frmo thai or indo!! heheh............
Kelvin Tan
6th January 2003, 08:54 AM
the most likely reason that you Hm get finrot is because they are frmo thai or indo!! heheh............
Kelvin Tan
6th January 2003, 08:58 AM
they shouldnt die so quickly....... yr dosage ok?
i would dose heavily with m blue, no problem, finrot usually stops..
Kelvin Tan
6th January 2003, 08:58 AM
they shouldnt die so quickly....... yr dosage ok?
i would dose heavily with m blue, no problem, finrot usually stops..
Ronnie Lau
6th January 2003, 11:08 AM
Joke aside, from my experience, it seems that the Thai imports are more prone to fin rot - anyone have siimilar experiences or explanations ? Also they seems to age faster??
Ronnie Lau
6th January 2003, 11:08 AM
Joke aside, from my experience, it seems that the Thai imports are more prone to fin rot - anyone have siimilar experiences or explanations ? Also they seems to age faster??
kennho
6th January 2003, 11:27 AM
Kelvin and the experience ones, what you meant by " because they are frmo thai or indo!! "
kennho
6th January 2003, 11:27 AM
Kelvin and the experience ones, what you meant by " because they are frmo thai or indo!! "
Ong Ginyew
6th January 2003, 12:45 PM
hey Kev, tats wat i personally did... i dose heavily wif m.blue for my HM.
it turned pale and died i think in less than 6hrs........:(
does it make any diff, from where d fishes come from?
usually when i ask d shop owners where d fishes come from, they would Jam for a moment and said its from Indonesia... some r lying, from d look of their faces..... anyway what do u gain when u lie.....Fools!!! lol....
Ong Ginyew
6th January 2003, 12:45 PM
hey Kev, tats wat i personally did... i dose heavily wif m.blue for my HM.
it turned pale and died i think in less than 6hrs........:(
does it make any diff, from where d fishes come from?
usually when i ask d shop owners where d fishes come from, they would Jam for a moment and said its from Indonesia... some r lying, from d look of their faces..... anyway what do u gain when u lie.....Fools!!! lol....
Robson Loh
14th January 2003, 09:35 PM
Three of my bettas are having rot fins at the moment. 1 HM, 1 DT & 1 4 ray CT. It really pain me to see the fish suffers like this. I've tried the yellow powder and External Bacteria & Fungus Away from Ocean Free together with salt. The bettas are surviving but the HM condition got worse. It Caudal fin is almost gone now and I really do know what else to do!:( What is the likely chance of recovery of the fins from such condition[?]
Robson Loh
14th January 2003, 09:35 PM
Three of my bettas are having rot fins at the moment. 1 HM, 1 DT & 1 4 ray CT. It really pain me to see the fish suffers like this. I've tried the yellow powder and External Bacteria & Fungus Away from Ocean Free together with salt. The bettas are surviving but the HM condition got worse. It Caudal fin is almost gone now and I really do know what else to do!:( What is the likely chance of recovery of the fins from such condition[?]
kennho
15th January 2003, 01:52 AM
you mean rot till almost gone ? You should have shouted very loudly in any forums to get help weeks ago. The fins can grow back but will never look the same again.
Fin rotting is due to bacteria infection and combination of undesireable water condition. Keep the water clean and perform frequent small change. Initial treatment with dose of salt at 0.2% (2gram per L) and the use of commerical medication like the jap yellow powder, interpet anti fin rot, aquamedic Befuran or a controlled drug tetracycline (if you can find lah). If you are using the yellow powder, use about 0.5gram per 10L.
The fish should be in there for some 3 days without feeding and renew the solution until the rotting comes to a halt. The damaged parts will have red blood clot and pretty aweful. Let the fish heal by itself liao. Feed the fish with clean blood worms to get the body system back to normal before it can grow the fin.
kennho
15th January 2003, 01:52 AM
you mean rot till almost gone ? You should have shouted very loudly in any forums to get help weeks ago. The fins can grow back but will never look the same again.
Fin rotting is due to bacteria infection and combination of undesireable water condition. Keep the water clean and perform frequent small change. Initial treatment with dose of salt at 0.2% (2gram per L) and the use of commerical medication like the jap yellow powder, interpet anti fin rot, aquamedic Befuran or a controlled drug tetracycline (if you can find lah). If you are using the yellow powder, use about 0.5gram per 10L.
The fish should be in there for some 3 days without feeding and renew the solution until the rotting comes to a halt. The damaged parts will have red blood clot and pretty aweful. Let the fish heal by itself liao. Feed the fish with clean blood worms to get the body system back to normal before it can grow the fin.
Ong Ginyew
15th January 2003, 01:18 PM
damn! fin rot is getting common nowadays, do u think its due to the hot weather?
Ong Ginyew
15th January 2003, 01:18 PM
damn! fin rot is getting common nowadays, do u think its due to the hot weather?
Kelvin Tan
15th January 2003, 07:58 PM
funny cos ppl keep telling me fish die frmo m blue....
me in small guppy tank, i use liek 3 drops of interpet m blue plus salt, fish no problem.
y powder doesnt work in some case and m blue is the med which i use for all finrot now unless it clearly doesnt help.
Foreign fish frmo thai / indo or straits aquarium grew up in totally different water conditions hence the difficulties for them to adapt to hdb water, so fin rot
Kelvin Tan
15th January 2003, 07:58 PM
funny cos ppl keep telling me fish die frmo m blue....
me in small guppy tank, i use liek 3 drops of interpet m blue plus salt, fish no problem.
y powder doesnt work in some case and m blue is the med which i use for all finrot now unless it clearly doesnt help.
Foreign fish frmo thai / indo or straits aquarium grew up in totally different water conditions hence the difficulties for them to adapt to hdb water, so fin rot
kennho
15th January 2003, 09:45 PM
Kelvin,
Since you got a super dupe medication cabinent ....
Most of the m.blue are diluted. Different brand has different concentration. Anyway, if one can find the actual m.blue crystal, then different story liao.
Most parasites can be kill by salt concentration at 0.1% but salt cannot destroy the parasites eggs. Especially worms eggs.
Yellow powder is only a mild anti-body medication. If I not wrong, it's contain some 60% salt. So dosage need to be slightly higher. But it's not a good medication.
Local water pH at 7.5 and hardness near zero. Low chlorine.
As for foreign fish, yes, I tends to agree to the water condition. I am still working on Thai water work to understand the different composition in their tap and well water. I got to know that their chlorine level is very high and required large amount of carbon filtration in most household.
Indonesia not too sure where are the betta farms. So no chance to do water test. Got info that the water is suitable for hard water fish.
As for some local farm water, the pH is at the high side and hardness much higher than our tap. Just go to any farms and collect water samples to test lor.
kennho
15th January 2003, 09:45 PM
Kelvin,
Since you got a super dupe medication cabinent ....
Most of the m.blue are diluted. Different brand has different concentration. Anyway, if one can find the actual m.blue crystal, then different story liao.
Most parasites can be kill by salt concentration at 0.1% but salt cannot destroy the parasites eggs. Especially worms eggs.
Yellow powder is only a mild anti-body medication. If I not wrong, it's contain some 60% salt. So dosage need to be slightly higher. But it's not a good medication.
Local water pH at 7.5 and hardness near zero. Low chlorine.
As for foreign fish, yes, I tends to agree to the water condition. I am still working on Thai water work to understand the different composition in their tap and well water. I got to know that their chlorine level is very high and required large amount of carbon filtration in most household.
Indonesia not too sure where are the betta farms. So no chance to do water test. Got info that the water is suitable for hard water fish.
As for some local farm water, the pH is at the high side and hardness much higher than our tap. Just go to any farms and collect water samples to test lor.
Kelvin Tan
18th January 2003, 09:40 AM
i think interpet's m blue is the thickest around. i use that......i cutting down dosaeg now and see fish's reaction, whether it becomes more lively.
Kelvin Tan
18th January 2003, 09:40 AM
i think interpet's m blue is the thickest around. i use that......i cutting down dosaeg now and see fish's reaction, whether it becomes more lively.
kennho
18th January 2003, 09:49 AM
Yup, in most of the LFS, Interpet consider the highest concentration. If I read the label correctly, it actually can be use for Ich and Fungus. Which means it's not a pure m.blue solution. At least another 2 more ingredient mixed. More of a general purpose medication.
kennho
18th January 2003, 09:49 AM
Yup, in most of the LFS, Interpet consider the highest concentration. If I read the label correctly, it actually can be use for Ich and Fungus. Which means it's not a pure m.blue solution. At least another 2 more ingredient mixed. More of a general purpose medication.
Kelvin Tan
18th January 2003, 10:06 AM
they actually use m blue for preventing fungus on fish eggs. and m blue use to treat white spots as well. i have also used it to treat fungus
i think its a pure solution coz you can sell m blue and call it m blue and add other stuff in them . perhaps in ocean free anti velvet/white spots they would add additional stuff.
right bro?
Kelvin Tan
18th January 2003, 10:06 AM
they actually use m blue for preventing fungus on fish eggs. and m blue use to treat white spots as well. i have also used it to treat fungus
i think its a pure solution coz you can sell m blue and call it m blue and add other stuff in them . perhaps in ocean free anti velvet/white spots they would add additional stuff.
right bro?
kennho
18th January 2003, 10:33 AM
pure m.blue is not for serious ich infection. Anyway, m.blue powder is not blue color. It's green crystal. Use for mild fungus infection, any other protozoan bacterial infections. A more effective agent is actually Malachite Green, which is also a green powder.
M.blue is used for many tank based aquarium which is easier to control, 0.1 gram for 1 gallon. 0.5gram of M.Green crystal enough to treat 1000 gallon which is mainly used by farms and pond keepers.
Anyway, most m.blue solution sure to have some small % of salt which is a much effective agent for Ich.
kennho
18th January 2003, 10:33 AM
pure m.blue is not for serious ich infection. Anyway, m.blue powder is not blue color. It's green crystal. Use for mild fungus infection, any other protozoan bacterial infections. A more effective agent is actually Malachite Green, which is also a green powder.
M.blue is used for many tank based aquarium which is easier to control, 0.1 gram for 1 gallon. 0.5gram of M.Green crystal enough to treat 1000 gallon which is mainly used by farms and pond keepers.
Anyway, most m.blue solution sure to have some small % of salt which is a much effective agent for Ich.
Kelvin Tan
18th January 2003, 11:43 AM
but i guess m blue would turn blue upon solubilization right?
m green is carcinogenic and please use with precaution.
i'm still trying to figure out med based on coloration
see med by rid-all or other cheap brandsm interested to use but dunno content
suppose there is acriflavin and m green out there....m green probably what is contained in ocean free anti fungus. trying to seek out what is in arowana special by rid all, a bright yellow med....i have a bottle from a koi farm and it tremendously cure fungus (which form spider webbing kind of fungus on tail)....stains hands yellow, bright flourescent green when added in water which then turn yellowish.
Kelvin Tan
18th January 2003, 11:43 AM
but i guess m blue would turn blue upon solubilization right?
m green is carcinogenic and please use with precaution.
i'm still trying to figure out med based on coloration
see med by rid-all or other cheap brandsm interested to use but dunno content
suppose there is acriflavin and m green out there....m green probably what is contained in ocean free anti fungus. trying to seek out what is in arowana special by rid all, a bright yellow med....i have a bottle from a koi farm and it tremendously cure fungus (which form spider webbing kind of fungus on tail)....stains hands yellow, bright flourescent green when added in water which then turn yellowish.
kennho
18th January 2003, 09:48 PM
Acriflavin is one of the most common medication in koi, goldfish and aro quarantine ponds. The rest I let you figure out. Couldn't mention too much. Aro Special har .... erh .... a kind of pesticide, fungicide.
If you want to use Rid-All hor, best wait till Aquarama. There will be a few "oversea" suppliers which will likely be selling chemicals and medication for pond use. Good time to talk to these suppliers.
Kelvin, your knowledge in chemical is not bad leh. But I see your method of treatment a bit rojak leh.
kennho
18th January 2003, 09:48 PM
Acriflavin is one of the most common medication in koi, goldfish and aro quarantine ponds. The rest I let you figure out. Couldn't mention too much. Aro Special har .... erh .... a kind of pesticide, fungicide.
If you want to use Rid-All hor, best wait till Aquarama. There will be a few "oversea" suppliers which will likely be selling chemicals and medication for pond use. Good time to talk to these suppliers.
Kelvin, your knowledge in chemical is not bad leh. But I see your method of treatment a bit rojak leh.
Robson Loh
21st January 2003, 09:22 AM
Hey guys;
This time I really need help. My Steel blue HM that I've just brought 3 days ago is starting to have rot fin. I got a shock as that fellow caudal fin had transformed CrownTail now. I really don't understand what had happened. When I first got it home, I had already conditioned the water with the Ketapang leave and anti-chlorine. He was looking good and was active in it new environment. However, I found out that it had rot fin 2 days later. What are the immediate action that I should do now to stop the rot fin. I've already changed the water and cleaned the tank. Yellow powder and salt is added. I was also wondering if it's a good ideal to cut of small portion of it caudal fin to prevent further rotting?:(
kennho
21st January 2003, 09:33 AM
yellow powder no use one. change to clear water, if can slightly around 28-30C. use m.blue that comes with anti-finrot and add about 0.2% salt. hv fun.
Samuel Phan
21st January 2003, 09:50 AM
Yep ... in this case Ketapang and Yellow powder wun help much ... use other medication specific to fin-rot.
Ong Ginyew
21st January 2003, 10:57 AM
overdosing of m.blue will kill ur fish... juz try not to overdose
Kelvin Tan
22nd January 2003, 01:49 AM
I call that the Thai HM finrot symptoms....try stop with m blue.
Ken
my method a bit rojak la but it works! i use intuition and sometimes i can replicate it cos i forgotten what i used. only unable to cure fish when they stop eating, leading to death or dropsy death, and some weird uncommon ones. but so far the normal ones i still am able to manage to handle. there are too many fishes out there that died of finrot and velvet, whcih i think its a shame. no adult fish should die of these two illness, cos its a terribly easy illness to treat.
ken
you must have a secret list of med used in medication......you know i am interested in treating fishes...promise i will not leak it out.... cos i wanna know which specific med in which shelf medication is the active one curing my fish. so i can possibly buy the pure substance and be more flexible in treating fishes. there is a brand out that that sells pure substance like formalin, m gree, m blue, acriflavine etc etc. i let you know where to get tetracycline la....
still have no clue about what is in herbal anti parasite/ bacteria/ etc cos no colour!
but seems weird that formaldehyde is used to cure swim bladder but it works like magic
Ong Ginyew
22nd January 2003, 01:56 AM
cool, sounds like alittle chemistry...
also had problems treating bettas not onli Kenn taught me 2...
somehow overcame it already...but still abit blur. lol.
kennho
22nd January 2003, 11:45 AM
Kelvin, actually it's not the medication that assist me to solve the problem. Maybe a few years ago, I am doing what most hobbyists do, ask around for help. The breakthrough was from my mentor that asked me a simple question : "what make your fish sick ?". I let you work around this question. By then, you should be able to solve most of the problem.
Ya, you can say I got a small list of medication. Most of it are not on sale in Singapore. However, I do know that a few of the agent will be at Aquarama 2003. Do walk around and talk to those agents. Don't be surprise that they don't sell in small quantity. If you intend to get, best to pool with the rest of your friends. Normally a bottle, packet of medication can use for years, and not cheap. Example, the anchor worms that you are experiencing can be cured by using Dimilin. Either you get from a vet or try to talk to fish farms owners. Price for Dimilin is around $3 per 10gm enough to treat 10,000 L of water.
As for formulin, my advice is that you have to be very careful when using it. Don't touch with naked hand. Most of the tropical fish medications do not contain it. Look for Koi and Goldfish medication for pond setup lah. But let me ask you another simple question : " what REALLY is swim bladder problem ? " Same, the rest is up to you to explore. Why formulin is so effective. There is another medication that is exceptionally good also. erh ... I can't mention it.
Ginyew, not chemistry. It's protozoan. hahaha.
Myron Tay
22nd January 2003, 11:55 AM
I think the key is prevention. That is why I stick to frozen and dried foods. These tend to be less filled with harmful organisms.
kennho
22nd January 2003, 01:27 PM
Right on target Myron. Preventive and Predictive measures. Don't give the bad germs a chance.
Foo Hong
22nd January 2003, 02:39 PM
I keep hearing abt fin rot complaints, but I hardly get much. So I hope I can share some thots on this subject with fellow members.
Yes prevention is better. In fact if it occurs, damage is already done. adult fishes normally do not recover to full glory. To me prevent means not contaminating the water in a very small jar of water. U see, there is no filteration, so the water is easily fouled. And where does the bacteria come from? food! or dirty food.
I ve tried feeding dried food to some fishes and for 6 days the water looks murky but fishie is not sick. I ve also dumped live foods into a jar and 1 hr later there goes brother betta in heaven.
So net net anyfood u feed must be clean or sterilised.
Kelvin Tan
22nd January 2003, 03:25 PM
well i am not going to figure out what makes my fish sick until am down to 50 fishes. too many fishes to bother with. of course more water change and clean food is the best but cant afford the time.
swim bladder is either infection or overfeeding of food lo, but seems that foramldehye works great. i dun really bother why makes it sick but how to treat it la...i should be doing opposite cos i studying microbiology...but then again, its too much effort.
Myron Tay
22nd January 2003, 04:11 PM
Precisely why I chose to specialise only in extended reds. [^]
quote:Originally posted by Kelvin Tan
well i am not going to figure out what makes my fish sick until am down to 50 fishes. too many fishes to bother with. of course more water change and clean food is the best but cant afford the time.
swim bladder is either infection or overfeeding of food lo, but seems that foramldehye works great. i dun really bother why makes it sick but how to treat it la...i should be doing opposite cos i studying microbiology...but then again, its too much effort.
Ong Ginyew
22nd January 2003, 04:32 PM
dun swan me leh...
i dun noe mah....LOL
Foo Hong
22nd January 2003, 04:45 PM
No one swan u...u swan yourself :D :D[ek2]
[eb]
quote:Originally posted by Ong Ginyew
dun swan me leh...
i dun noe mah....LOL
Ong Ginyew
22nd January 2003, 07:26 PM
wa lao... u also another one :(
lol
Robson Loh
22nd January 2003, 10:37 PM
Thanks guys, I will switch to M.blue immediately. However, what will the recovery period like for my HM caudal tail to grow back? Or it's not possible at all. The little is still active in it tank as if nothing happened. [xx(]
Ong Ginyew
23rd January 2003, 12:40 AM
Hi Rob,
i guess it will grow back slowly but wun look like how it 1st looked like..
and mayb not as pretty as b4...
tats wat happened to mine.
dennistancheesim
14th April 2003, 03:42 PM
quote:Originally posted by Robson Loh
Thanks guys, I will switch to M.blue immediately. However, what will the recovery period like for my HM caudal tail to grow back? Or it's not possible at all. The little is still active in it tank as if nothing happened. [xx(]
yo bro...whenthe fish is young..still can grow back lar....
but once the fish is old...can not leow...[bh]
dennistancheesim
14th April 2003, 03:43 PM
have anyone try to cut it off b4??
Chris Yew
14th April 2003, 04:57 PM
I've tried cutting the anal and caudal fin of bettas a few times. Even in old fishes, the fins will still grow back but of course the color of that part which grow back differs from the orignial ones.
dennistancheesim
14th April 2003, 05:32 PM
quote:Originally posted by Chris Yew
I've tried cutting the anal and caudal fin of bettas a few times. Even in old fishes, the fins will still grow back but of course the color of that part which grow back differs from the orignial ones.
chris have you try them on crown tail....hahahaha...they won't grow back man...[bh][bh]...but still have them with me lar....hahaha...
whan young fish you cut them they will still grow back...and i cut those on old fish....like very slow for the to grow back leh....and as you have say...when they do grow back...its like BF lar...hahahahah[bh]
Chris Yew
14th April 2003, 09:22 PM
CT no! Good idea, maybe next time should try. When they grow back, the color is a bit like 'toasted bread' with kaya haha.
kennho
14th April 2003, 10:39 PM
This is only my thought ... yet to experiment, but soon to work on a older ct I got.
The excessive growth of rays of CT definitely required a larger amount of nutrients and minerals. For younger fish, I do experience that the rays will grow back, but for the bigger ones, once broke off after spawning or curl, the chances of growing is extremely low. As such, I am working on a diet and high mineral enhanced water to bring back the rays.
No guranteed result in 3 months' time.
Ong Ginyew
15th April 2003, 12:57 AM
u mean bringing it's rays back to its original form??
mine have recoverd after spawning...an older male ct though.
its recovering quite fast.... not to its original form...but i find tat it is growing back nicer than b4..lol.
kennho
15th April 2003, 07:53 AM
Ginyew, yes, something like dat. I think we move this discussion over at CT section instead. Salt bath, good food and regular change after spawn for your ct ?
remember the few sd/hm at KY house ? I still remembered 2 of them got real bad fin rot and now recovered fully. That's where I look for hints of rejuvenating of fin.
Kelvin Tan
15th April 2003, 10:19 AM
finrot was my first betta disease that i had problem with and still have problem with stopping it quick.... i got more than 5 med for fin rot....but using mainly m blue now...effective to a limited extent. fish wun die la.....but fin still gone
Myron Tay
7th June 2004, 02:52 PM
quote:Originally posted by Troy Smith
hi all i got a cupple of question's about fin rot
ok Q, what causes it?
Q2, how to stop it?
Q3, how to treat it? as over night my hm tail has almost rotted away any help please thank you bye
quote:Originally posted by Alex Lim
Hi Troy,
this thread mainly reflects local conditions which is different from Australia. you should be able to get good commercial medication for finrot from your LFS. in extreme cases, cut off the infected part using razor. use cotton wool or dab to cover your fella's body, and slice off the infected finnage. change into new water and salt. it will solve completely to my experience. but note that if finrot hits crowntails, the rays/fringes will not recover. recovered HM/SDs will recover but the grown back part will not be the same as originally. will have lighter colour tone. finrots usually occur due to poor water conditions. but i encountered a extreme persistent case whereby my blue DT does not recover even with daily water changes & medi. that case remains a mystery to me.
hope this helps
quote:Originally posted by SimonLiew
quote:Originally posted by Alex Lim
Hi Troy,
but i encountered a extreme persistent case whereby my blue DT does not recover even with daily water changes & medi. that case remains a mystery to me.
Hi Alex,
How are you doing ?
OK, you're case could be the fish problem itself, low resistance. Sometimes it just happen due to age, and other factors as well.
How old was the DT anyway ?
regards
Simon
quote:Originally posted by Alex Lim
Hey Simon,
doing fine man, busy with rearing my fries & exam preps. thanks :D if i recall correctly, when it came home with me, it should be between 6-8 months. i'm not sure if it could be old age. but it seems a likely reason, holding other factors constant. anyway, it's gone to betta heaven already. [ag] i'm sure he'll get a new DT coat there :D
Myron Tay
7th June 2004, 02:52 PM
quote:Originally posted by Troy Smith
hi all i got a cupple of question's about fin rot
ok Q, what causes it?
Q2, how to stop it?
Q3, how to treat it? as over night my hm tail has almost rotted away any help please thank you bye
quote:Originally posted by Alex Lim
Hi Troy,
this thread mainly reflects local conditions which is different from Australia. you should be able to get good commercial medication for finrot from your LFS. in extreme cases, cut off the infected part using razor. use cotton wool or dab to cover your fella's body, and slice off the infected finnage. change into new water and salt. it will solve completely to my experience. but note that if finrot hits crowntails, the rays/fringes will not recover. recovered HM/SDs will recover but the grown back part will not be the same as originally. will have lighter colour tone. finrots usually occur due to poor water conditions. but i encountered a extreme persistent case whereby my blue DT does not recover even with daily water changes & medi. that case remains a mystery to me.
hope this helps
quote:Originally posted by SimonLiew
quote:Originally posted by Alex Lim
Hi Troy,
but i encountered a extreme persistent case whereby my blue DT does not recover even with daily water changes & medi. that case remains a mystery to me.
Hi Alex,
How are you doing ?
OK, you're case could be the fish problem itself, low resistance. Sometimes it just happen due to age, and other factors as well.
How old was the DT anyway ?
regards
Simon
quote:Originally posted by Alex Lim
Hey Simon,
doing fine man, busy with rearing my fries & exam preps. thanks :D if i recall correctly, when it came home with me, it should be between 6-8 months. i'm not sure if it could be old age. but it seems a likely reason, holding other factors constant. anyway, it's gone to betta heaven already. [ag] i'm sure he'll get a new DT coat there :D
Myron Tay
7th June 2004, 02:54 PM
quote:Originally posted by Foo Hong
I used to dread this problem but these days I hardly encounter any finrot in my bettas. I believe finrot as in other diseases, is due to an unygienic environment. Bettas are kept in a small volume of water, usually unfiltered. Hence, water deterioration begins immediately after changing the water. To me, prevention is teh key and I always find that keeping teh water clean and suitable for teh betta will keep finrot at bay.quote:Originally posted by roycheok
FH..agreed. My fishes used to get finrot as well...when i was juz starting out...mainly because i change water abt once a week...and dun care even if there are some uneaten food...thought the betta can eat later...but if u keep up with water change...keep env clean and fish healthy...they can fight off any infection that would ultimately result in finrot. same like humans...healthy pple seldom die of pneumonia...but once you are down and sick...pneumonia can kill.quote:Originally posted by Foo Hong
Yep I hate uneaten food. And whenever I use tubifex, it is only when I will be changing the water soon. That thing is filthy!
Myron Tay
7th June 2004, 02:54 PM
quote:Originally posted by Foo Hong
I used to dread this problem but these days I hardly encounter any finrot in my bettas. I believe finrot as in other diseases, is due to an unygienic environment. Bettas are kept in a small volume of water, usually unfiltered. Hence, water deterioration begins immediately after changing the water. To me, prevention is teh key and I always find that keeping teh water clean and suitable for teh betta will keep finrot at bay.quote:Originally posted by roycheok
FH..agreed. My fishes used to get finrot as well...when i was juz starting out...mainly because i change water abt once a week...and dun care even if there are some uneaten food...thought the betta can eat later...but if u keep up with water change...keep env clean and fish healthy...they can fight off any infection that would ultimately result in finrot. same like humans...healthy pple seldom die of pneumonia...but once you are down and sick...pneumonia can kill.quote:Originally posted by Foo Hong
Yep I hate uneaten food. And whenever I use tubifex, it is only when I will be changing the water soon. That thing is filthy!
Myron Tay
7th June 2004, 02:56 PM
quote:Originally posted by jocelyn
Hi! My fish is suffering from finrot.. Have put in melafix, rot has stop but fin haben grow back yet..Sad to hear that, Jocelyn. Trust this thread would be useful to you.
Myron Tay
7th June 2004, 02:56 PM
quote:Originally posted by jocelyn
Hi! My fish is suffering from finrot.. Have put in melafix, rot has stop but fin haben grow back yet..Sad to hear that, Jocelyn. Trust this thread would be useful to you.
Chee Wei
7th June 2004, 09:10 PM
I am still figuring out why my bettas are very prone to finrot compared to others'. There are more than 10 cases within these 3 mths and all are outbreak which means a few fishes are infected all at the same time. after healing them, another outbreakl will come in a few weeks time. So far apart from finrot, there was only another case which was dropsy.
Chee Wei
7th June 2004, 09:10 PM
I am still figuring out why my bettas are very prone to finrot compared to others'. There are more than 10 cases within these 3 mths and all are outbreak which means a few fishes are infected all at the same time. after healing them, another outbreakl will come in a few weeks time. So far apart from finrot, there was only another case which was dropsy.
Daniel Chia
7th June 2004, 10:44 PM
Hi **** Wei,
To prevent disease spread, besides washing the tanks with a disinfectant (e.g. diluted bleach) and thoroughly rinsing them afterwards, all shared articles (e.g. Betta Scoop, Pipette, Droppers, Siphon Tubings, etc.) would need to be properly disinfected too.
Refrain from having sick fish share the mentioned articles with healthy fish. If possible, have 2 sets (1 for sick bettas and 1 for healthy bettas).
Daniel Chia
7th June 2004, 10:44 PM
Hi **** Wei,
To prevent disease spread, besides washing the tanks with a disinfectant (e.g. diluted bleach) and thoroughly rinsing them afterwards, all shared articles (e.g. Betta Scoop, Pipette, Droppers, Siphon Tubings, etc.) would need to be properly disinfected too.
Refrain from having sick fish share the mentioned articles with healthy fish. If possible, have 2 sets (1 for sick bettas and 1 for healthy bettas).
Chee Wei
8th June 2004, 12:30 AM
quote:Originally posted by Daniel Chia
Hi **** Wei,
To prevent disease spread, besides washing the tanks with a disinfectant (e.g. diluted bleach) and thoroughly rinsing them afterwards, all shared articles (e.g. Betta Scoop, Pipette, Droppers, Siphon Tubings, etc.) would need to be properly disinfected too.
Refrain from having sick fish share the mentioned articles with healthy fish. If possible, have 2 sets (1 for sick bettas and 1 for healthy bettas).
Dear Daniel,
Actually I am doing everything u mentioned except using bleach to sterilize. Well, I may buy a bottle of Chlorox tomorrow. Thanks for your info.
Just wondering why it's just finrot and not others that wont damage the finnage.
Cheers,
**** Wei
Chee Wei
8th June 2004, 12:30 AM
quote:Originally posted by Daniel Chia
Hi **** Wei,
To prevent disease spread, besides washing the tanks with a disinfectant (e.g. diluted bleach) and thoroughly rinsing them afterwards, all shared articles (e.g. Betta Scoop, Pipette, Droppers, Siphon Tubings, etc.) would need to be properly disinfected too.
Refrain from having sick fish share the mentioned articles with healthy fish. If possible, have 2 sets (1 for sick bettas and 1 for healthy bettas).
Dear Daniel,
Actually I am doing everything u mentioned except using bleach to sterilize. Well, I may buy a bottle of Chlorox tomorrow. Thanks for your info.
Just wondering why it's just finrot and not others that wont damage the finnage.
Cheers,
**** Wei
Daniel Chia
8th June 2004, 08:26 AM
**** Wei,
Sanitizing your tanks and equipment with Chlorox would properly eradicate the germs and eliminate the problem of them returning to cause more havoc.
Faith of Betta Talk has some advice on the use of Chlorox as a disinfectant. Hope you'll find the following URL useful.
http://www.bettatalk.com/sanitization.htm
Daniel Chia
8th June 2004, 08:26 AM
**** Wei,
Sanitizing your tanks and equipment with Chlorox would properly eradicate the germs and eliminate the problem of them returning to cause more havoc.
Faith of Betta Talk has some advice on the use of Chlorox as a disinfectant. Hope you'll find the following URL useful.
http://www.bettatalk.com/sanitization.htm
Myron Tay
8th June 2004, 09:49 AM
**** Wei
Trust the following thread on maintenance of halfmoons would be useful to you:
http://www.bettaclub.org.sg/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1531
Myron Tay
8th June 2004, 09:49 AM
**** Wei
Trust the following thread on maintenance of halfmoons would be useful to you:
http://www.bettaclub.org.sg/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1531
Chee Wei
8th June 2004, 12:24 PM
Daniel and Myron,
Thanks for your infos.
**** Wei
Chee Wei
8th June 2004, 12:24 PM
Daniel and Myron,
Thanks for your infos.
**** Wei
Goh Kai Hui
12th June 2004, 01:31 AM
Ya...really must be careful with ur M. Blue...i accidentally drip too much and my female beta died almost instantly....scarry ah
Goh Kai Hui
12th June 2004, 01:31 AM
Ya...really must be careful with ur M. Blue...i accidentally drip too much and my female beta died almost instantly....scarry ah
David Esguerra
12th June 2004, 02:52 PM
Meth blues seems to have an overdose effect when it is administered without aeration, otherwise it is quite mild, mild maybe as compared to such meds as malachite green and formalin.
Fin rot has been quite an epidemic in a lot of lines, particularly show lines and I can't help but think that a bit of genetics could be involved. Either the fish are being bred to be less resistant to fin rot and other diseases as well (though I think this would not be intentional but rather through maybe over inbreeding, less priority in fish hardiness etc.)
Then again the fin rot strains may also be much stronger now which could be attributed to the use of propylaptic doses of meds, using meds when they are not necessary giving the fin rot organism a chance to adapt to the med to the point that it would already be immune to it and some other factors.
David Esguerra
12th June 2004, 02:52 PM
Meth blues seems to have an overdose effect when it is administered without aeration, otherwise it is quite mild, mild maybe as compared to such meds as malachite green and formalin.
Fin rot has been quite an epidemic in a lot of lines, particularly show lines and I can't help but think that a bit of genetics could be involved. Either the fish are being bred to be less resistant to fin rot and other diseases as well (though I think this would not be intentional but rather through maybe over inbreeding, less priority in fish hardiness etc.)
Then again the fin rot strains may also be much stronger now which could be attributed to the use of propylaptic doses of meds, using meds when they are not necessary giving the fin rot organism a chance to adapt to the med to the point that it would already be immune to it and some other factors.
Michael Koh
13th June 2004, 11:11 PM
The most important thing is not to overdose on any other medication. Because one of my female betta died less than an hour after I accidentally overdose it with Interpet anti internal bacteria because of my inexperience :( As for tailfin rot, I use "Taipoh diseases control rot tail prevention special"(the 1st medication for fin rot that I lay my hands on)and 1 teaspoon of salt on 1 of my bettas with finrot, and the combination seems to be working :) The tail stop rotting and then I use Melafix to help speed up the growth of the tail. The result is quite satisfactory although you can't get back the original condition of the tail. Just sharing my experience about fin rot;)
Michael Koh
13th June 2004, 11:11 PM
The most important thing is not to overdose on any other medication. Because one of my female betta died less than an hour after I accidentally overdose it with Interpet anti internal bacteria because of my inexperience :( As for tailfin rot, I use "Taipoh diseases control rot tail prevention special"(the 1st medication for fin rot that I lay my hands on)and 1 teaspoon of salt on 1 of my bettas with finrot, and the combination seems to be working :) The tail stop rotting and then I use Melafix to help speed up the growth of the tail. The result is quite satisfactory although you can't get back the original condition of the tail. Just sharing my experience about fin rot;)
Myron Tay
5th July 2004, 01:34 PM
quote:Originally posted by hinako
HI all , my fish fin keep on rot[xx(]. i change my water almost every 2-3 day(water is over night).I have put yellow powder also no use. Still got what can help my fish...[tx]
Hinako
Trust this thread answers your queries?
Myron Tay
21st August 2004, 10:44 AM
quote:Originally posted by Yishu
hmm..recently my fish fins started rotting...i can see red blood streaks on their fins... hmm...nothing happend until i place them into my breeding tank...the breeding tank only haf 1 very old ketapang leafs (nv been used b4) but i washed it b4 putting it in..and i nv feed my betta for 4 days cuz i want them to breed and dosn't dirty the water... can tell me wats the cause and wat can i use to cure them now ? [hlp]
quote:Originally posted by Daniel Chia
Hi Yishu,
In fin rot, the fin and ray tissue becomes opaque, blood streaked and eaten away.
Interpet Aquarium Treatment No. 8 is recommended. To see the whole range of Interpet aquarium medications, visit the following URL.
http://www.kwzone.com/products/links/interpet%202.htm
Alternatively, a concoction of PimaFix plus MelaFix can also be used. To find out more about PimaFix and MelaFix, visit the following URL.
http://www.aquariumpharm.com/aqfish.html
Do treat your fish early (i.e. before the erosion reaches the fin base) and keep the water clean. Depending on severity, recovery may take a week or so.
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